heehohum: 'Vela' @Velas

‘VELA’ AT VELAS !

Dolphins are an elusive species ... Intelligent and hence elusive ? Seemed like a valid deduction on my part or else how would you explain the relentless search across 5 continents despite guarantees, would yield just the vast expanse of smirking aquamarine at my silly quest for the bottle nose ?

And then last week, the tide turned so to speak. A trip to Dapoli, along the Konkan coast, 200 kms from Pune, finally saw me scanning once again the deep blue at Murud. It started with a jittery start on a boat that had water lapping at our feet and caressing my trailing fingers. Still my hopeful eyes scanned. 15 mins into the ride, the motor whined shut. What followed as expectant breaths misted the morning air, was the waves lapping the sides of the boat, hushed silence and eyes with crow's feet sifting the flotsam on the waves. And then the sea rippled... 3 beautiful grey shapes made a circle and to my mesmerized eyes, what followed was a 10 min cosmic dance and I swear one bottle nose actually grinned at me ! In contemplative silence, I returned oblivious to the happy chatter around me in the boat. Yes, my search had finally ended and the boatmen had kept their promise.

BREAKERS AHOY !
Just when I thought the trip's purpose had been achieved, the helpful receptionist at Fern Valley Samali Resort, bore good news. Velas, the 'turtle village' was just 40 kms away. I could not pass up such an opportunity. Amid groans from my family, we set off on another adventure, this time on terra firma. Velas is yet another jewel on the beautiful Konkan coast, 70 kms away however. A chance drive towards a humble village actually saw us traversing the same topography as Chapman's Peak Drive in Cape Town and Great Ocean Road from Melbourne to Adelaide. As we approach the village, breakers line the narrow cobbled road and the sea welcomes one to Velas with a roar. Waves splashed the windows of our vehicle and we were spellbound. Thankfully, my daughter managed to rouse herself from our collective reverie and clicks followed.

ROAD LESS TRAVELLED ?

And then we went back in time. A village beckoned. 20 houses line a dusty path on either side. The sun beats mercilessly and the villagers are welcoming. Old fashioned high ceilinged brick houses fenced by a cow shed at the back where buffaloes and cows jostle for space with chickens and an annoyed rooster. A high rocky embankment beyond helpfully placed by the State govt said our host Sunil, keeps the water at bay. We clambered up to see an islet where a raft idled and beyond a small casuarina grove, the sea beckoned bewitchingly.

Sunil's wife meanwhile had rustled up a lunch that was served with a panache that would put a 3 star restaurant to shame. Everything is homegrown and naturally tasty. Replete, we learnt the mantra that is the undercurrent at Velas be it turtles or tourists is ' Live and let live '. A neighbour grows mangoes and jack fruits and hosts lead their wide eyed customers to them for more business, yet everyone is happy as not only are the famed Alphonso the most succulent unlike their Calcium carbided brethren, they are also sold at less than half the MRP elsewhere.

OLIVE RIDLEYS
Off to turtle beach where TCS is now helping the conservation efforts initiated by a septuagenarian 'kaka' who heads Sahyadri Nisarga Mitra, who still does a double patrol daily and saves the eggs once laid by a female turtle in sand pits along the shoreline. Female turtles, it is said, travel nearly 3000 km annually to their favoured nesting spot. An adult female Olive Ridley turtle lays about 130 -140 eggs in one clutch and retreats to the sea. Not for her the hassle of being a single parent ! Eggs take about 40 days to hatch.A male turtle once hatched and in the sea, says goodbye to land forever in his life. It is now upto the newly hatched turtles to test Darwin's theory of survival of the fittest. Unfortunately, without such conservation efforts, the sheer egg numbers stll cannot beat the odds. The nesting sites are covered under bamboo baskets to allow the babies some protection as they emerge taking their first breaths. This phenomenon happens from February through April.
Kaka comes promptly at 6 pm and there is a palpable frisson of excitement in the air. His ‘chelas’ have checked under the baskets and today there are 4baby turtles that are ready for the swim of their life. 2 days ago, we released 128 babies into the sea, a volunteer says, clucking in pride!

A rectangle is drawn with a stick on the wet sand near the shoreline; we are instructed not to cross that ' lakhsman rekha'. It is now time for the ritualistic race. The 4 players are placed inside the perimeter facing the sea. I have christened one Usain Bolt.The baby turtles get their bearings and then propel themselves. Their inbuilt radar unerringly guides them towards the direction of the sea. U.B naturally reaches the shore first and goes stock still for a split second when the first wave hits him. Then he is off furiously paddling, our cheers egging him further away. T2 & T3 soon follow their sibling. All eyes are now on T4 who is playing out the Aesop"s fable we think and knowingly smile. Kaka knows otherwise. He gently scoops T4 up and places him on the shoreline. The waves are not kind and T4 is challenged in more ways than one we discover sadly. Kaka whispers to a ‘chela’ who takes the little grey hatchling far away from prying eyes and places him in a sheltered section of the beach where the sea is a balm to his battered back. Kaka shrugs and one hopes little T4 will emerge as the proverbial hare in the fable.

On the drive back, it is as if the sea is meditative watching T4's struggle. So are we as the sun dips and we head back watching a lone motor boat cutting a swathe through the water even as the evening lights come on in the village we leave behind. A twinkling jewel along the coast called Konkan.